Image: An approach shot from the trees at High Cedars Golf Course in Orting, WA.
When you start spending more time looking at approach shots like the one above than you do looking at them from the fairway, your game just might be in trouble for that day. It’s easy to get caught up in making a miraculous shot that saves a par, or even nets a birdie after a bad shot instead of just playing the right one. Looking at the image above, the front edge of the green is visible from a few different angles, but the tall tree in the center is too close to go over with enough club to reach the flag. The options to go for it are very limited, and none of them is the right play. That doesn’t mean you can’t, but it means if you want to score better, you probably shouldn’t.
When you watch a tour pro on TV, watch how they react to a shot like this. Of of them will pull out a mid to long iron and play a “punch and run” shot to the fairway or they will take the slightly more dangerous line and go for the green. 9 times out of 10, the punch and run guy saves his par and moves on. The story isn’t the same for the guy that took his chances. Maybe 10% of the time, the guy plays it out to the right, through that open tree and draws the ball back to the flag, where he is able to make a par as well. It looks way more impressive, but the safer play is to setup your 100 yard club and knock it stiff.
The Setup: ball back, stance open, hands forward, clubface slightly open and swing like you’re cutting across the ball.
The slicing punch and run is one of my favorite shots to hit. I would say 95% of my punches are played with the same club, the 3 iron. I begin by placing the ball in the back of my stance, much like I do with a wedge. I used my same setup technique, feet together/ball centered, then I move my left foot forward to position he ball in the back. This keeps the lowest point of my swing where I set up for it. From there, I open my stance about 30 degrees to my target line, making sure to aim to the left of the trouble. Depending on the trouble and the landing area, I can move this shot anywhere from 5 yards to 20 yards without much issue. Keep that in mind as you aim left of the trouble, the further you go, the further you need to bring the ball back.
Once I have the ball back and my stance open, I fan the club head open to being directly aimed at the trouble spot. This is going to allow me to hit the ball with more side spin than if I was squared up to my target line, which would be just left of the trouble spot. From there, choke down about half way on the grip (until you feel comfortable with the club and stance) and perform a forward press to get your hands in front of the club head. This will deloft the club you are using and keep the ball very low coming off the face. Once you are set, take about a half swing with the club and watch the ball fly off the face low and left. With the face angle and cutting swing from the open stance, it will begin to turn right almost immediately. With a bit of practice, you will be able to steer this shot just about anywhere you want it to go.
The harder you swing, the more spin will be placed on the ball and the further right it will turn for you.
I have had quite a few people ask me if this shot works in reverse, or as a low hook. The answer is yes, but it’s not an easy shot to master at all. When you close off a lower iron, then deloft it, there’s a great chance that you will end up driving the ball straight into the ground creating what looks like a topped shot or you will shank the ball off the hosel due to the offset that most longer irons offer. Tour pros practice shots like this constantly on the range, so you can work on it there for yourself, but that punch-slice will be a bread and butter shot to add to your bag to escape trouble. Remember, if you can make the ball go far enough right, it’s almost the same as making it go a little left.
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